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Discovering prehistory

Time travel for two

Prehistory has left its mark on the Ariege Pyrenees. For 14,000 years, humans have left their mark on the landscape. The Magdalenians left traces of their passage in the Palaeolithic: their paintings adorn the walls of the grotte de Niaux in the Vicdessos valley. To better understand this period and walk in the footsteps of our ancestors, a visit to the Parc de la Préhistoire in Tarascon is a must. It’s the perfect opportunity to organise a weekend for two and take a trip back in time to experience some unforgettable, timeless moments!

At the start of the journey

Dive back in time

Here we are in the Pyrénées Ariégeoises in a comfortable les Terrasses de Castelmerle room for a weekend of discovery. This cosy nest also offers détente thanks to a piscine and the sauna, all in a magnificent setting.

The surprise and the unknown… My lover offered me this break to celebrate our meeting and the theme is “to the origins”. I try to guess but I confess I don’t understand. When I look up, I discover an immense cavity above me, dominated by a gigantic sculpture. I think I’m onto something… Prehistory!”

We’re expected at the grotte de Niaux, for which booking is compulsory. The road climbs gently up to the imposing porch where we leave the car to get a closer look at this sculpture facing us. Architect Fuksas created this weathered structure, which symbolises a strange animal emerging from the grotto and allowing us to admire the panorama over the Vicdessos valley.

Parietal arts

The Niaux cave

In the foreground is the silhouette of the château de Miglos perched on a rocky spur, then the superb village of Lapège perched on the mountainside on the other side and further away the still snow-capped peaks of the Spanish border. The guide introduces himself and gives us a few instructions: a jacket and good shoes are needed, and he ensures the distribution of lamps as the grotto is not lit.

We set off in a small group of no more than 25 people to explore this gem of Prehistory… in the footsteps of Cro-Magnon. The last light outside gradually fades and we imagine ourselves 14,000 years back in the footsteps of our ancestors who painted the animals, mysterious geometric signs at the bottom of this cavity which was – according to the guide – a place of worship since traces of life have been found in the nearby cow cave.

Ibex, horse and bison

So much to see...

Alas, we won’t get to see all the traces of these men who left their footprints on a dune or painted a belette elsewhere, because the network is immense and it’s 800 metres that separate us from the famous “black lounge” where bison, hartebeests and other felons from the Prehistory are painted. The guide tells us that the replicas are on display at the Prehistory Park. A narrow passageway and here we are…

This is a truly magical journey, the emotion felt at the sight of the paintings giving way to amazement at the discovery of the various representations in such good condition despite the use of natural materials and pigments: iron oxide, charcoal, natural ochres. These artists knew how to handle the strokes with precision while following the natural relief of the walls to make these animals so real. It’s easy to imagine how these animals looked alive in the torchlight.

Sacred place

Many mysteries surround this place steeped in history and this visit makes you want to find out more about our distant ancestors. We leave dazzled by the daylight and still giddy from the wonderful spectacle we’ve witnessed.

Flint knapping?

The Prehistory Park

I thought I was going back to the hostel but no, we pass it to reach the Parc de la Préhistoire on the outskirts of Tarascon-sur-Ariège, where we will have lunch and visit. After being welcomed on the terrace of the restaurant “le bouquetin” we are lulled by the sound of the cascades near the pools and contemplate all around us these Pyrenean peaks. We sample some delicious South-West produce and finish off with a delicious homemade dessert on the terrace before embarking on the ‘grand atelier’.

Knowledge transfer

Through the centuries

The visit is free, as equipped with audio guides, we journey through time, centuries and so many unexpected masterpieces. Art, ornaments, tools, weapons… nothing held any secrets for these Magdalenians who lived in harmony with nature. Looking at the children enjoying the park at the same time as us, we’re pleased to see that this knowledge is being passed on. And with this new knowledge, we feel closer to our ancestors. All food for thought as we wind down our weekend and discover the magnificentlandscapes of the region.

Come on, let's make a reservation!

Go exploring
The Ariege Pyrenees, your oxygen bubble!

Envy of unspoilt nature, the great outdoors and white water?
In winter, skiing, snowboarding, skating, snowshoeing, sledging, dog sledding, at Ax 3 Domaines, Beille, Ascou and le Chioula, Mijanés and Goulier....

In summer, hiking, mountain biking, paragliding or canyoning....

And throughout the year, the benefits of thermal water at Ax-les-Thermes or Ussat-les-Bains or the Couloubret Baths.
Must-see tourist sites: the Niaux Cave and the Prehistory Park.

Not forgetting the history of our mountains and its heritage, pastoralism and local produce!

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